I have been wanting to go on this trek for many years, mainly because of all the mythological stories associated with this place. The majestic landscape incites a sense of mysticism and humility which justifies its name as the Valley of Gods.

The grand peak rising in the right is Swargarohini, also called as the Stairway to Heaven

It is said to be the path taken by Pandavas and Draupadi to atone for their sins after the great war. One by one, their body parts disintegrated according to the bad deeds committed by each. By the end only the eldest brother (who is said to have only lost a nail because of a lie he told once in his life) and his accompanying dog (who, as I choose to believe, represents the innocence of animals and their disengagement from the manmade world of right and wrong) reached the summit and were welcomed into heaven.

Mythology aside, the summit of this mountain hasn’t been conquered in the known living history. Natural causes like boulder showers, avalanches, etc. have always restricted the climbers from ascending to the top.

Interesting how the stories around this peak haven’t changed much transcending generations

Our ‘Beyond the Wall’ experience :D

Due to a broken bridge, we couldn’t visit the Ruinsara Tal, which is generally part of the Har-ki-Dun itinerary. Instead, we got a chance to venture beyond the said valley, into this vast untouched snowscape towards the Marinda Tal. For me, GoT’s ‘Beyond the Wall’ was the only reference to describe what we witnessed. The snow was fresh hence no trails could be found. Our trek leader and guide traced out safe paths amid the thick blanket of snow. My eyes were strained from the white light reflecting from everywhere and feet were sore from the long tiring walk, but the incredulity of my surroundings and the excitement they sparked surpassed all that.

Some 2kms before the lake, weather started turning and clouds on the horizon threatened to dive down and vanish our footmarks in the snow. Safety first, so we turned back (and googled both the lakes later after reaching the base camp :P).

All in all, wonderful adventure! Swipe to the last pic to see me happily holding the flag at some 12,600ft :)

The ancient village of Osla and some of its cutest residents

One of the best features of Har-ki-dun trek is the village hopping. Osla is one such self-sufficient village at an altitude of some 11kft; the last of them actually, beyond which only wilderness lies. It is a vibrant settlement with lots of interesting stories and attributes.

Its a matriarchal society. You can see women doing all the outdoorsy chores while men weave and cook. The final decisions are taken by family’s woman-head and dowry system is in-reverse. (I thought — No wonder this village survived for thousands of years :D)

They work hard during summers and store supplies for the winters. When the cold winds start blowing, its time to rest, relish and endure. The village sits at a high altitude, unshaded from surrounding mountains, facing east so that the sunlight stays for longer.

According to legends, people worshipped Duryodhan in these parts. Although the only temple we could find was at the city centre dedicated to Lord Shiva. The eldest Kaurava had many traits worth revering and there ARE temples of him in different parts of the country but for Osla, not so sure. Maybe they did/do worship him but decided to hide it, scared of being on the unpopular side of history. Or maybe its just a rumour propagated to make things interesting. In any case, the village, houses, the temple, the people, .. all of it is super pretty :)

The quaint village of Gangaad nestled beside the river Thamsa 😍

This ancient village is the Day2 campsite in Har-ki-dun trek. The village coming into view is a magnificent sight to behold — There is a blue gushing river at the foothills with a classic wooden bridge over it, colourful houses propped up on stakes peeking through pink blooms and dense greens, and the majestic snowclad mountains in the background — hard to take one’s eyes off of this view. Heart leaps with joy as one steps towards it :))

There is a lovely tradition associated with the Lord Shiva temple in 4th image: There is a cluster of some 22 neighbouring villages, including Gangaad and Osla, with exactly the same temple construction in the central courtyard. The idol of the temple, Someshwar, keeps travelling from one village to the other and the transition is carried out in the form of festive processions. Also, every year one village hosts a big festival organising games and entertainment for all the neighbouring villages.

We had a wonderful stay here owing to the billions and billions of stars in the night sky and the warmth, quiet and pitch darkness of the fine wooden houses.

And at the end of the day, its your lovely fellow travellers who make the journey memorable 💕

Wish I could capture every laugh we shared, every helping-hand extended to a new friend and every moment of sheer regard & gratitude that we felt for this beautiful valley.